No plant is more versatile, easy to grow, and long-lived, yet decorative than Peace lily (Spathiphyllum). Unlike its particularly tough counterpart, it does not look dull. The wavy leaves have a pointed tip that harmonizes with the delicate white florets, which look fresh and bright. spatifillum blooms in the shade grow quickly and require easy care. And everything needs to be accounted for by its foliage and growth rate. It is a truly modern design favorite for bedrooms, living rooms, and offices. You will learn how to grow Peace lily plants in ThumbGarden’s article.
PEACE LILY PLANT DESCRIPTION
A plant that is both ornamental and flowering (and even long-lived), Peace lily or Spathathathillum is a model of graceful beauty.
Peace lily (Spathiphyllum) is an evergreen, large-leaved, stemless perennial herb that develops in clusters, growing rapidly and producing daughter plants. The leaves are gathered at the roots and spread from dense “tubes.” They are entire, wavy, elegantly curved, on stout, straight petioles with a sheath above the middle.
Oval or lance-shaped with a solid pointed tip, the leaves appear thin, delicate, and tactile. The venation pattern is well defined with a thick central vein and fine, parallel lateral veins. The coloring is dark green.
Spathiphyllum either does not flower or flowers almost all year round, even though careful analysis does not reveal any pattern. More often than not, these plants flower in softer light, in places where other plants cannot flower, rather than in bright light. However, what is certain is that Peace lily requires careful care and consistent soil moisture to bloom. Traditionally, flowering begins in March and continues continuously or in waves through the winter.
Peace lily’s pale yellow, lettuce-colored inflorescences are barely noticeable, but they look exquisite and very pretty under the cover of ornate bracts. The shape of the cover around the corms harmonizes perfectly with the shape of the leaves. The green hue of the faded inflorescence also adds to its charm. The white, slender, textured, and elegant bedcovers with protruding tips look very smart and harmonious.
Spathiphyllum is one of the best species capable of purifying the air of pollutants. It is considered to be the most effective “green filter.”
TYPES AND CULTIVARS OF THE INDOOR PEACE LILY
Small or large, smooth or wavy, wide or narrow leaves – Spatifillums are all different. You’d better make your choice based on the size of the plant and the size of the leaves, as species and varieties are usually not specified.
Among the 50 species of spatifillum in the room, the following can be found
Spathiphyllum wallisii, a miniature, up to 12 inches (30 cm), abundantly flowering species with dark lance-shaped leaves and large perianth.
Spathiphyllum blandum, an elegant species with elongated, tip-curved leaves with flag-like, small green caps.
Spathiphyllum floribundum is a 20 inch (50 cm) long species with elliptical lanceolate leaves with large white cages up to 10 inches (25 cm).
Spathiphyllum cannifolium has emerald-colored ovate leaves and a greenish-white cover.
Spathiphyllum spoon-shaped, also known as Spathiphyllum cochlearispathum, syn: Spathiphyllum heliconiifolium), is a 40 inch (1 m) long species with wavy lanceolate leaves up to 15 inches (40 cm) and ovate, reversible caps.
GROWING CONDITIONS FOR INDOOR PEACE LILY
Spatifillum looks great indoors in any style, in any size room, and for any functional use and is a versatile landscape candidate that always fits well anywhere. In addition, it is just as plentiful in the home as it is in the office. Its shade tolerance allows this beautiful shrub to be used away from window sills, and its cleverness allows it to replace even the most pretentious of plants.
Lighting and placement
The peace lily is by far the most adaptable plant to varying light conditions, second only to Camellia. They grow well in bright enough light (except on hot southern windowsills and where the foliage is exposed to direct sunlight) and in soft shade or semi-shade. The best distance from a window is 60-120 inches (1.5-3 m). Mature plants need their usual level of light; younger plants will adapt better. Completely shaded areas will not tolerate such plants. Artificial extra light is acceptable.
Spatifillums do well both singly and in groups. When placed on the floor, on the table, and on stands, they are not afraid of close arrangements or any scrutiny. They can be used at will.
Temperature and Ventilation
A cool overwintering temperature of 60-64 °F (16-18°C) is desirable but unnecessary. Without it, the plant will not suffer if properly cared for; with it – care is easier, and flowering is more likely. Otherwise, Spatifillum is very suitable for room temperature, at 70-73 °F (21-23°C).
To maintain the attractive appearance of the leaves of Spatifillum, it is worth protecting them from the wind. A direct result of stability rules and sudden temperature changes is the darkening of leaf tips and accelerated yellowing of older leaves.
CARING FOR PEACE LILY AT HOME (SPATIFILLUM)
Peace lily’s ability to cope even in situations of extreme neglect is legendary. It is almost impossible for the plant to die, and even if the leaves wilt during drought, they will still recover with watering. However, unattended plants will inevitably lose their decorative qualities and dry out at the top, unlike fresh, dense, bright bushes that receive at least moderate but regular care.
Watering and humidity
This plant prefers constant humidity and can survive with a completely dry substrate and careful watering, but not constant wetness. The ideal regime can be achieved by simply drying the top 1 inch (2.5 cm) or so of soil in the pot and varying the watering frequency according to temperature. For eustoma, it is best to use water that is 10 °F above room temperature and has a mild character. It is best to drain excess water from the trays immediately.
Spatifillums should be bathed regularly with warm showers. They prefer water sprays and humidity of about 60%.
Fertilization and fertilizer composition
Over-fertilization is more fearful of Spatifillums than under-fertilization. It is not the most nutrient-demanding plant and can be carefully fertilized in moderate amounts with conventional fertilizers (half an application every 2 weeks) or occasionally, but in full doses from spring to summer (one fertilizer application per month is sufficient).
Spathiphyllum is better suited to an all-purpose fertilizer; too much nitrogen will result in insufficient flowering.
Pruning and shaping of spatifillum
Cut off a few old, dry leaves and stems as possible. If the leaves dry out, do not cut back to a healthy section, but leave a thin strip at the edge.
Transplanting, containers and substrates
Spathiphyllum is transplanted during growth, at any time during its active vegetation. For reproduction, the lush bush – a large group with many rosettes – is easily divided into 2-3 parts. Individual small lateral progeny are broken off and rooted as plugs on warm, moist sandy ground.
A general-purpose, loose, nutrient-rich substrate or a special soil with a neutral response for ornamental foliage plants will also do the trick. The main thing is to provide good drainage and transplant Spatyphyllum carefully, with as little contact with the roots as possible.
Peace lily flowers, although widely spread, should not be planted in bowls. The depth of the container should match the weight of the root system. Containers should be increased by 1-2 inches (2.5-5 cm) to allow the Spathiphyllum to stretch out.
Diseases, pests and cultivation problems
In dry air, under constantly fluctuating conditions, in draughty situations, without simple sanitation or close to air conditioners and radiators, the plant’s leaves can easily dry out from the top. If nothing is done to correct the situation, the black spots will creep further and further away. More often than not, however, the blackening of leaf tips is due to another problem – over-watering or over-feeding. Irregular spots and mosaics on the leaves indicate over-cold watering, over-watering, and soil compaction.
Under unsuitable conditions, cold or heat, constant drought, systematic irrigation errors can cause the leaves to turn yellow, and sometimes even leaves that have not yet expanded can dry out. Lack of flowering is associated with low temperatures, drought, and improper fertilization.
The most common pests are mealy bugs, aphids, and spider mites. The best way to deal with insects is to combine corrective care and conditions with insecticide treatments.