There are many questions from friends: How to plant chrysanthemums? Why do chrysanthemums become lighter? How to cover the chrysanthemums with a blanket in winter? When and why should I bury chrysanthemums in a ditch? Read about it in our article.

The chrysanthemum is deservedly called the queen of autumn – because it blooms luxuriously until frost. But not every queen can boast of such resistance and character!

The hardiest specimens can even bloom until mid-December, and if you move the flowering shrubs into pots in time, you have every chance of enjoying the chrysanthemum’s blooms until Christmas!

Chrysanthemums are also considered to be an ideal cut flower. If properly cared for, chrysanthemum bouquets can stay fresh for a full month. Chrysanthemums can easily handle long trips.

It requires little care and is cold and drought tolerant. It seems that this flower is definitely self-sufficient. But some subtle care methods can be useful for careful flower lovers.

OVERVIEW OF CHRYSANTHEMUM CULTIVATION

Sowing: Sowing in the open in May and seedlings in April. Seeds can be sown under winter, no later than two weeks before frost.
Flowering: late summer/early autumn.
Light: Bright sunlight.
Soil: Dry, well-drained, nutrient-rich, loamy, slightly acidic, or neutral.
Watering: abundant. Fertilize three times a season, turning mineral and organic fertilizers into liquid form. First fertilization within 7 weeks after planting.
Propagation: Annuals are propagated by seeds only, perennial and cultivated species are mostly propagated vegetatively (in clumps and cuttings).
Insect pests: nematodes, aphids, grassworm.
Diseases: gray rot, rust, septicemia, powdery mildew, bacterial carcinoma of the roots.

Chrysanthemum is a perennial herb in the Asteraceae or Composite family and an annual herb. In Greek, it means “flower of gold” or “flower of the sun” because the inflorescence of many species is yellow.

According to information, the genus has 29 species in the wild, distributed in northern and temperate zones, mainly in Asia. Archaeologists point out that it was cultivated by the ancient Chinese more than 2,500 years ago, and its petals were used as food.

Chrysanthemum was even mentioned by Confucius himself in the book Spring and Autumn! And in China, the chrysanthemum is also known as the “king of flowers”. Later, the Japanese also developed a cult of this flower, so much so that only members of the royal family were allowed to wear clothes with chrysanthemum patterns.

In Europe, the flower first appeared in the eighteenth century but was not actively cultivated until the nineteenth century. Scientists believe that the common garden chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum hortorum) was formed by crossing two Asian species, the small-flowered Chrysanthemum Indicum, which is native to Japan.

and Chrysanthemum morifoolium from China, but some breeders believe that the ancestors of garden chrysanthemums are Chrysanthemum Indicum and Chrysanthemum chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum is so loved by breeders that experiments to breed new varieties have not stopped so far, especially because chrysanthemum is not only a beautiful flower for human beings but also the last rhythm in the symphony of autumn flowers.

BOTANICAL DESCRIPTION

Chrysanthemum includes perennials and annuals, some species are herbaceous and some are semi-shrubs. The rhizomes of chrysanthemums are branched and develop parallel to the surface.

Shoots may be naked or maybe pubescent. The color of the leaves is usually light green, although they may be darker.

The florets are arranged in a basket shape, sometimes quite large, and usually consist of a single row of tubular median flowers and ligulate marginal flowers, although in many hybrid cultivars the flowers are arranged in multiple rows to form a dense inflorescence called a daisy pedicel.

The fruit of the chrysanthemum is a seed. A common crop variant is the so-called garden chrysanthemum or chrysanthemum mulberry. It is sometimes referred to as Chrysanthemum Chinensis. it is a complex group of varieties and hybrids with a rather confusing history.

HOW TO PLANT CHRYSANTHEMUM

Growing from seed

The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemums is to take cuttings and divide them into seeds, but often a seed chrysanthemum is the real pride of the breeder. Propagation by seed can be used for both perennials (such as Korean chrysanthemums) and annuals. We will show you how to breed chrysanthemums using annuals as an example.

In May, after the spring frost, place 2-3 seeds in wells positioned 20-25cm (7.8-9.8inch) apart, sprinkle with warm water, cover with soil, and then cover the bed with garden film to keep the heat and moisture in the soil.

As soon as the seedlings will sprout, remove the film, carefully loosen the soil and eliminate weeds. After ten days, feed the seedlings with diluted Ideal or Rainbow.

When the seedlings grow to 7-10cm (2.7-3.9inch) tall, leave a strong plant with 3-4 true leaves in the well and the rest of the seedlings can be placed elsewhere. Your annuals will bloom in early August. If you want your chrysanthemums to bloom early, you have to start with seedlings.

Seedling planting

Mix equal parts of greenhouse soil, humus, and peat at room temperature and place the seedlings in a shallow box. The mixture is best bought in a store where it is sold sterilized, or if you decide to make your own, don’t forget to sift it out and heat it at 230-266°F (110-130°C).

Put crushed bricks or clay in the bottom of the box to create a drainage layer, then put potting soil on top and scatter the seeds on top. Cover the seeds of annual chrysanthemums with a 0.5cm (0.19inch) layer of soil. Do not cover the seeds of perennials, just press them gently against the soil.

Now spray the surface with a sprayer, cover the box with plastic wrap or glass and keep it at 73-77°F (23-25°C) with occasional aeration and spraying with warm water to keep the soil from drying out.

If nothing unexpected happens, sprouts should appear in a week and a half to two weeks. Now move the container to the brightest place and start gradually acclimating the sprouts to the environment by removing the glass or film for one hour, then two hours, and so on until the lid is completely removed.

If the seedlings are too dense, when 2-4 leaves (not cotyledons, and all that) are present, take cuttings in a cup with the same soil mixture, taking care not to damage the roots of the chrysanthemum seedlings.

To do this, moisten the soil in the box heavily before harvesting. Weak or overly elongated seedlings are discarded. After the seedlings are picked, they are sprayed with zirconite or an Aipin solution to help them root quickly.